Growing garlic that really works — more allicin, more nutrients, healthy soil

Garlic is the most undemanding bulb you can grow in your garden or field. It needs little space, hardly any care — and it protects not only itself but also its neighbors in the bed. But not all garlic is created equal.

Garlic grown in healthy, mineral-rich soil contains significantly more alliin — the precursor to allicin — and more secondary sulfur compounds than garlic from depleted soil. It smells more intense, tastes stronger, and is more effective.
This is no coincidence. It's the direct connection between soil health and nutrient density that we've already seen with tomatoes, carrots, and red onions. With garlic, it's particularly clear — because its active ingredients depend so directly on the soil's mineral status.

This guide shows you how to grow garlic that reaches its full potential. What the plant needs. What diseases lurk. And how the interplay of soil, microorganisms, and foliar fertilization creates garlic that truly works.

What garlic needs — the basics

Garlic is less demanding than most vegetables — but it rewards good soil care exceptionally well.

Soil: Loose, humus-rich, well-drained. Garlic hates waterlogging — it's the most common single cause of root rot and white rot. Well-structured soil with sufficient zeolite as a water buffer is the best foundation.
pH value: 6.0 to 7.5 — the optimal range for garlic. In this range, sulfur, calcium, and all other minerals that garlic needs for allicin synthesis are maximally available.
Sulfur: The most important mineral for garlic overall. All sulfur-containing compounds — alliin, allicin, ajoene, diallyl disulfide — are formed from sulfur that the plant absorbs from the soil. Sulfur-poor soil produces weak garlic.
Calcium: Stabilizes cell walls, regulates stomata, and opens the way for all other minerals. Calcium is key for garlic too.
Crop rotation: Garlic should never be grown in the same bed where garlic, onions, leeks, or other alliums were previously grown. A break of at least four years is necessary — otherwise, fungal pathogens accumulate in the soil.

The most important garlic diseases — what they are and what's behind them

White rot — Sclerotium cepivorum

White rot is the most feared disease in garlic cultivation. The fungal spores — called sclerotia — can survive in the soil for up to eight years. Once they are in the soil, it becomes difficult.
What you see: The leaf tips turn brown, the leaves wilt and get a grey coating. Roots and the base of the bulb develop a white mold and then rot away.
What's behind it: White rot thrives on compacted, moist soils with poor soil life. Active soil with diverse microorganisms keeps the fungus in check — through natural competition. Zeolite as a water buffer and AM+PLUS as a microorganism booster are the most effective prevention here.

Garlic rust — Puccinia allii

Rust appears as orange-yellow to reddish-brown pustules on the leaves. It significantly weakens the plant and reduces bulb quality.
What's behind it: Rust primarily attacks weakened plants. Nitrogen over-fertilization makes the cells soft and susceptible — the classic warning applies here too: too much nitrogen promotes rust. A balanced mineral supply with the full spectrum of trace elements from basalt is the most effective prevention.

Fusarium rot

In Austria, there is even a dedicated EIP research project specifically for Fusarium in garlic cultivation — that's how relevant the topic is. Fusarium mainly affects the root system and the base of the bulb, especially in poor soil life and waterlogging.
What's behind it: Fusarium loves dead, biologically inactive soils. Living soil with active microorganisms — especially Trichoderma fungi contained in AM+PLUS — naturally keeps Fusarium in check.

Garlic mosaic virus

The mosaic virus is mainly transmitted by aphids. It causes mosaic-like yellow-green spots on the leaves and can lead to bulb deformities.
What's behind it: Aphids preferentially attack plants with low Brix values and incomplete protein synthesis. A vital, well-nourished plant with a high Brix value is less attractive to aphids. And the physical protective film of GRÜNKRAFT Zeolith Pur on the leaves acts as a natural repellent against sucking insects.

Thrips and onion maggot

Both attack weakened plants. Thrips leave silvery-white streaks on the leaves. The onion maggot lays eggs at the base of the plant — the larvae eat their way into the bulb.
The same applies here as for aphids: The silicate particles of GRÜNKRAFT Zeolith Pur on the leaf surface act as a natural repellent through a purely physical process.

A secret tip: Garlic as a protective partner in the bed

Garlic not only protects itself — it also protects its neighbors. Garlic and strawberries harmonize perfectly with each other at a distance of about half a meter. Leaf spot disease and grey mold — the most common strawberry problems — don't like garlic.
So, if you plant strawberries and garlic alternately, you kill two birds with one stone: more nutrients from both crops, and natural mutual protection.

When to plant — autumn or spring?

Garlic can be planted in autumn or spring — but autumn planting is clearly the better choice.
Autumn planting (October to November): The cloves overwinter in the ground, sprout early and form larger, more aromatic bulbs by summer, with more time for allicin synthesis. This is the traditional and recommended method for Austrian gardens.
Spring planting (March to April): Possible, but the bulbs will be smaller. Only if you didn't have time in autumn or want to use freshly acquired cloves.

The complete program for nutrient-rich garlic

Step 1 — Soil preparation: Incorporate BODENKRAFT Zeolith PUR

Timing: 3 to 4 weeks before planting — so late September to early October for autumn planting.

BODENKRAFT PUR is tribomechanically ground zeolite with a particle size of 100 µm. The internal crystal lattice structure remains intact due to the tribomechanical process — this makes it many times more effective than simply ground zeolite.

For garlic, zeolite is particularly important for two reasons. Firstly, it buffers waterlogging — the main cause of white rot and Fusarium. Secondly, it binds sulfur and calcium in the root area and releases them as needed — precisely the two minerals crucial for allicin synthesis.

Application in commercial farming: Apply 200 - 500 kg BODENKRAFT Zeolith PUR per hectare.
In the garden: Rake one to two generous handfuls of BODENKRAFT Zeolith PUR per linear meter of garlic bed, 15 to 20 cm deep.

Step 2 — Mineral base: Incorporate Steinkraft Basalt

Timing: Simultaneously with BODENKRAFT Zeolith PUR.

Steinkraft Basalt provides the broad spectrum of trace elements that garlic needs for its sulfur compounds, which are also immediately plant-available due to its fineness — silicon, iron, manganese, copper, zinc, cobalt, molybdenum. Its paramagnetic properties activate soil life and triple the microbial environment.
! Especially important: Silicon from basalt and zeolite strengthens the cell walls of garlic and makes it more resistant to rust fungi and other leaf diseases.

Application in commercial farming: 300 to 500 kg per hectare.
Application in the garden: Sprinkle 0.5 kg per square meter and rake it in.

Step 3 — Activate soil life: Use AM+PLUS Microorganisms

Timing: At planting — and then every 3 to 4 weeks.

AM+PLUS Active Microorganisms is the original solution made from Austrian organic herbs, based on lactic acid bacteria, refined with homeopathy and spagyrics.
For garlic, AM+PLUS is particularly valuable for a specific reason: The microorganisms directly compete with white rot and fusarium for the same soil niches. Active, diverse soil leaves little room for soil-borne fungal pathogens. This is the most natural and sustainable prevention available.
Customers report: With the combination of basalt, zeolite, and AM+PLUS, snails disappear from the garden — a welcome side effect for the garlic bed too.
In commercial farming: As a soil drench at planting, then every 3 to 4 weeks.
In the garden: Add a splash of AM+PLUS to the watering can — pour directly into the planting hole when setting the garlic cloves.

Step 4 — Planting: how to do it right

Plant the cloves with the tip pointing upwards, about 5 to 7 cm deep in the soil. Spacing within the row: 10 to 15 cm. Row spacing: 25 to 30 cm. Garlic needs space for large bulbs.
Important: Only use healthy, certified, or proven own planting material. Many fungal diseases — especially Fusarium — are introduced via the planting material. Cloves that are soft, discolored, or moldy have no place in the bed.

Step 5 — First foliar fertilization: GRÜNKRAFT Calcium from sprouting onwards

Timing: As soon as the first shoots emerge from the soil — in spring after overwintering.

GRÜNKRAFT Calcium is tribomechanically pulverized calcite with natural zeolite in a particle size of less than 8 µm. Stomata-permeable — the fine particles penetrate the plant through the leaf pores, decomposing into CO₂ for photosynthesis and calcium for the cell walls.
For garlic, this is particularly effective: Calcium activates the enzymes necessary for sulfur compound synthesis. A garlic plant well supplied with calcium forms more alliin — and thus more allicin after harvest.
GRÜNKRAFT Calcium can be easily combined with all commercially available fertilizers and plant protection products.

First application: 5g per 1 liter of water — half a measuring spoon.
From the second application every 10-14 days: 20-30g per 1 liter of water — two measuring spoons.
Spray time: Early morning or late afternoon when stomata are open.

Step 6 — GRÜNKRAFT Zeolith Pur as leaf protection

Timing: Parallel to GRÜNKRAFT Calcium, from the first sprout.

GRÜNKRAFT Zeolith Pur forms a physical protective film on the leaf surface. The ultra-fine silicate particles act as a natural repellent against thrips, aphids, and onion flies — through a purely physical process, without chemicals.
At the same time, it transports silicon into the leaf — which strengthens the cell walls and improves resistance to rust and other fungal diseases.
Application in commercial farming: 3 kg per hectare per application. Spray nozzle diameter 150 to 300 µm, spray pressure at least 3 bar. 1 drop of wetting agent (organic dish soap) per 1 liter of water.
In the garden: Spray all leaves with a fine spray bottle — especially in humid weather and when there is a risk of rust.

The treatment schedule for garlic

Autumn at planting: BODENKRAFT PUR + Steinkraft Basalt into the soil + AM+PLUS into the planting hole.
First shoot in spring: GRÜNKRAFT Calcium 5g/l first application + AM+PLUS as a soil drench.
Active growth every 10-14 days: GRÜNKRAFT Calcium 20-30g/l + GRÜNKRAFT Zeolith Pur combined.
In case of rust risk or humid weather: GRÜNKRAFT Zeolith Pur more frequently — the silicate film is the first line of defense against fungal spores.
Every 3-4 weeks: AM+PLUS into the irrigation water — keep the soil life active.
Shortly before harvest: Last GRÜNKRAFT Calcium treatment 2 to 3 weeks before harvesting. The calcium in the last weeks directly increases alliin storage in the bulb.

For the garden — concrete and simple

Thirty garlic cloves need hardly any space and almost no time. Here's the simplified plan:

In autumn when planting: Work BODENKRAFT Zeolith PUR and Basalt into the bed. When planting each clove, add a shot of AM+PLUS into the planting hole.
In spring at the first sprout: Fill a spray bottle with GRÜNKRAFT Calcium — 5g per 1 liter for the first application. Spray all leaves early in the morning. This takes less than two minutes for thirty plants.
Every 10-14 days: 20-30g GRÜNKRAFT Calcium per 1 liter of water. In humid weather, add GRÜNKRAFT Zeolith Pur. Spray both together — this saves time.
Once a week: AM+PLUS into the watering can.

Tip for companion planting: Plant garlic and strawberries together, about half a meter apart. The essential oils of garlic protect strawberries from grey mold and leaf spot disease. The strawberries benefit — and so does the garlic.

Harvest and storage — when and how

Garlic is ready to harvest when about one-third to half of the leaves have yellowed. If harvested too early, the wrappers are not yet fully formed, and the garlic will not store as well. If harvested too late, the cloves will fall apart.
After harvesting: Allow the garlic to dry in an airy, shaded place for two to three weeks. Drying is crucial for shelf life and for the concentration of its active compounds. During drying, the outer skins thicken, and the bulb can fully develop.
What influences quality: Garlic with a high dry matter content — the direct result of calcium supply and foliar fertilization — dries more evenly, stores longer, and has a more intense concentration of all active ingredients after drying.

Measuring the Brix Value in Garlic

Garlic can be easily measured with a refractometer — press a piece of the bulb and place a drop of juice on the device.
According to the Reams table, target Brix values for garlic are: good from 8 °Brix, excellent from 12 °Brix. Intensely fragrant, freshly harvested garlic from well-nourished soil is significantly higher than what you find in the supermarket.
And those who measure will see the effect of their treatment in black and white.

The Complete Program at a Glance

All products for the garden in our Garden Collection.
For businesses, all products in the Agriculture Collection.
What's really in a garlic clove — allicin, the ten-minute ritual, and why black garlic is an improvement — in the Garlic Nutrient Article.

Why paramagnetic basalt triples soil life — Basalt Blog Article.
How to correctly use zeolite in the garden — the comprehensive guide.
How to correctly measure the Brix value — instructions and Reams table — Brix Article.
Garlic and strawberries as the perfect companion planting — Strawberries How-to Article

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